#6 Istanbul : au carrefour entre Orient et Occident

Je quitte l’Union européenne pour de bon cette fois. Je me fais d’abord avancer d’une centaine de kilomètres par un bulgare germanophone. Pendant toute ma traversée des Balkans, j’ai été surpris d’être amené à utiliser l’allemand. En effet, nombre de mes conducteurs ne parlaient pas un mot d’anglais, mais s’exprimaient avec aisance dans la langue de Goethe. Ceci s’explique en partie par la vague d’immigration en provenance de Yougoslavie vers l’Allemagne, la Suisse ou encore l’Autriche dans les années 1990. Si certains sont retournés dans leur pays d’origine après la fin de la guerre, nombreux sont ceux qui ont décidé de rester sur leur terre d’accueil, mais retournent régulièrement rendre visite à leurs familles restées au pays. La diaspora turque en Allemagne se fait aussi de plus en plus ressentir à mesure qu’on approche de la frontière. Plus de la moitié des véhicules sont immatriculés en Allemagne.

C’est avec une famille originaire du Maroc que je traverse la frontière de la Turquie. Ils me déposent dans le centre d’Edirne, petite ville frontalière qui demeura capitale de l’Empire ottoman jusqu’à la prise de Constantinople en 1453. Changement majeur, le monde orthodoxe laisse place au monde musulman. Les journées sont désormais rythmées par les appels à la prière du muezzin perché au sommet d’un des minarets de la mosquée. Comme je m’y attendais, c’est ici que commence vraiment le dépaysement, le voyage. L’influence européenne va désormais s’amenuiser à mesure que j’avance vers l’est.

 

 

Edirne ne joue aujourd’hui plus aucun rôle sur le plan politique mais sa splendeur architecturale témoigne de sa grandeur passée. Véritable chef d’œuvre de l’architecture islamique, la mosquée Selimiye s’impose au centre de la ville avec ses quatre minarets les plus hauts du monde. Je fais la rencontre de Mehmet, un turc originaire d’Antalya de passage à Edirne pour quelques jours. Mehmet me fait visiter la ville, m’apprend quelques expressions utiles en turc et me donne maints conseils pour mon séjour. Il me fait aussi goûter quelques plats locaux ; la cuisine turque est délicieuse et est loin de se limiter au célèbre Kebab.

Après cette entrée en matière fort agréable, je n’ai qu’une hâte : me rendre à Istanbul, immense métropole au carrefour entre l’Europe et l’Asie. Un chauffeur de poids lourd turc ne parlant pas un mot d’anglais m’emmène jusqu’à la périphérie occidentale de la ville. D’ici je peux rejoindre le centre-ville avec les transports en commun. Je me souviens avoir écrit que Marseille ou encore Gênes me semblaient grandes, que dire d’Istanbul alors ! Ma notion de grande ville s’arrêtait jusqu’ici à Londres ou Paris, alors que la population de la mégalopole stambouliote s’élève à plus de 14 millions d’habitants. Il est difficile de trouver les mots justes pour décrire la grandeur, l’étendue, l’immensité d’Istanbul. La qualifier de ville tentaculaire me semble le plus approprié. Et encore faut-il le voir pour le croire.

Je me rends dans une auberge près de Taksim, célèbre place de la rive européenne, où j’ai trouvé un petit boulot en échange du gîte et du couvert. Idéal pour limiter mes dépenses et profiter de la capitale culturelle du pays pendant quelques semaines. D’autant plus que le job n’est vraiment pas des plus pénibles. Je suis chargé de prendre des photos des différents plats qui sont préparés par le petit restaurant de l’auberge pour leur compte Instagram. L’ambiance avec les autres bénévoles est sympathique, nous profitons de notre temps libre pour explorer la ville. L’excitation est à son comble lorsque nous prenons le bateau pour rejoindre Üskudar ou encore Kadiköy, quartiers de la rive asiatique.

En raison de sa localisation exceptionnelle et de son histoire mouvementée, Istanbul est une ville cosmopolite aux nombreux visages. D’abord Byzance, puis Constantinople et enfin Istanbul, la ville a traversé les siècles et les empires. La ville s’étale de part et d’autre du détroit du Bosphore constituant ainsi une des frontières continentales entre Europe et Asie. Cette division géographique symbolise l’identité multiple de la Turquie, oscillant entre occident et orient. Bien que les derniers avancements politiques vont dans la direction opposée, la Turquie est un pays moderne et laïque, qui possède cependant des origines islamiques, dites orientales.

Istanbul me fascine : ses innombrables mosquées, ses pêcheurs, le grand bazar et ses marchands d’épices, ses couleurs, ses senteurs, ses saveurs. C’est aussi une vraie mine d’or pour la photographie de rue ; il s’y passe toujours milles choses. Istanbul est l’une de ces villes où l’on pourrait passer des mois et sans cesse découvrir de nouveaux quartiers, de nouveaux recoins, de nouvelles facettes.

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Avant de venir à Istanbul, j’ai lu un article sur les bostan, des jardins partagés millénaires en voie de disparition. Je profite d’être sur place pour en apprendre davantage. Les bostan sont des espaces agricoles urbains où les habitants du quartier plantent divers produits frais. Ils existent depuis des siècles, mais leur existence est en péril au vu de la politique néolibérale de transformation urbaine entreprise par l’AKP, le Parti de la Justice et du Développement. Si nombre d’anciens bostan d’Istanbul ont disparu, de nouveaux sont toutefois apparus et ce surtout depuis le mouvement de contestation du parc de Gezi en mai 2013. La finalité de ces derniers n’est pas lucrative mais de plus en plus politique. Les habitants qui s’y investissent défendent des alternatives au modèles capitalistes de production et de consommation. Plus que de simples espaces agricoles, il s’agit de lieux de sociabilité intergénérationnelle et de véritables espaces de débat et d’opposition politique. Au vu du contexte politique turc actuel, il n’est pas étonnant que ces derniers soient dans le collimateur de la municipalité.

Je me rends au bostan de Kuzguncuk sur la rive asiatique. J’y rencontre Oya, une retraitée originaire du quartier qui cultive un lopin de terre du bostan depuis des années. Oya m’explique dans un amusant mélange d’anglais, d’allemand et de turc qu’elle cultive des tomates, des aubergines et des poivrons pour sa consommation personnelle. Elle aime y passer du temps avec son mari, loin du tumulte de la ville. Oya me fait part de l’importance du bostan à ses yeux. « Istanbul manque déjà d’espaces verts, comment peuvent-ils songer à détruire le peu qu’il nous reste ! ». Il y a quelques années, la municipalité a lancé un projet de construction d’hôpital privé à la place des jardins partagés. Or le bostan de Kuzguncuk est vieux de 700 ans et possède une forte valeur affective, patrimoniale pour les locaux. Les habitants du quartiers se sont donc mobilisés à travers plusieurs pétitions et manifestations ainsi qu’une importante couverture médiatique locale pour condamner le projet. Après maintes négociations, un compromis a été trouvé pour assurer la survie du bostan. Ce dernier a cependant pris la forme d’une institutionnalisation, au détriment de la dimension contestataire originelle du bostan. Jadis un espace libertaire et autogéré où chacun pouvait venir comme bon lui semblait, le bostan est désormais régi par un règlement stricte et des heures d’ouvertures fixes. Les parcelles sont attribuées par tirage au sort et les heureux élus doivent d’acquitter d’une somme d’argent pour pouvoir les utiliser. Oya regrette l’ancien fonctionnement du bostan, mais elle m’explique qu’elle est soulagée qu’une solution ai pu être trouvée pour assurer la pérennité des jardins partagés si chers à ses yeux. L’exemple du bostan de Kuzguncuk est éloquent et participe à soulever la question de la place de la nature en ville. Si les bostan constituent une caisse de résonance des voix dissidentes turques, on peut aussi légitimement s’interroger sur leur avenir compte tenu du contexte politique actuel où la liberté d’expression ne cesse d’être restreinte.

Après deux semaines riches en découvertes et en rencontres, il est temps de reprendre la route. Avec quatre bénévoles de l’auberge, nous allons travailler à un festival de musique près de la mer de Marmara. L’occasion de profiter de la côte et de se faire un peu d’argent pour pouvoir continuer le voyage.

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