#9 Arménie et Haut-Karabakh

L’heure est aux sacrifices lors que je fais mon sac à Tbilissi. Les températures sont récemment tombées et je me suis acheté une veste d’hiver. Faute de place, je dois maintenant choisir entre la tente et le manteau. En trois mois de voyage je n’ai presque pas campé. Je décide de laisser la tente à l’auberge, quelqu’un pourra sûrement en faire meilleur usage que moi. Malgré une règle de base du stop selon laquelle il est préférable de partir tôt, je quitte Tbilissi en milieu d’après-midi. Une première voiture s’arrête sans tarder et me conduit jusqu’à Marneouli, quelques 40 kilomètres plus loin. Nous sommes déjà à la mi-octobre et les journées sont considérablement plus courtes. Le soleil commence à tomber et je suis toujours à plus de quatre heures de route d’Erevan où j’espère passer la nuit…

Une fois de plus on dirait que j’ai de la chance, deux Arméniens me prennent dans la foulée et me disent qu’ils vont jusqu’à Erevan ! Je peux me détendre et admirer le soleil se coucher derrière les collines boisées au loin. La route qui mène à la capitale arménienne est assez chaotique. Mes conducteurs sont néanmoins d’une amabilité à toute épreuve : il m’invitent à manger sur le chemin et me déposent à la porte de mon auberge. Bonne entrée en matière!

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Erevan m’accueille sous des trombes d’eaux. Je profite donc des premiers jours pour rattraper mon retard dans mon carnet de route et trier mes photos. Lorsque le ciel s’éclaircit enfin, je commence à explorer un peu la ville. Erevan est une capitale agréable et dynamique, les allées sont larges, il y a de nombreux parcs et espaces verts. Symbole de l’Arménie, le Mont Ararat se laisse entrevoir au loin par un temps dégagé. Au grand dam des Arméniens, il appartient désormais à la Turquie. Ça n’empêche en rien de trouver des banques, restaurants, hôtels et que sais-je encore qui portent son nom. Je rencontre de bons amis à l’auberge et m’y sens vite chez moi.

Je suis curieux d’en apprendre plus sur le génocide arménien. Après avoir lu quelques livres sur le sujet, je décide de consacrer mon temps passé ici à la réalisation d’un reportage. Plus d’un siècle après le massacre de près de 1,5 millions d’arméniens dans l’Empire ottoman, quel travail de mémoire est mis en œuvre pour que le drame ne sombre pas dans l’oubli ? Comment la mémoire est-elle transmise et évolue-t-elle d’une génération à la suivante ? Quelle place le génocide occupe-t-il dans la conscience collective et l’identité nationale arméniennes ? Comment envisager un avenir serein entre l’Arménie et la Turquie ? Fruit d’une quinzaine d’interviews auprès de personnes diverses et variées : étudiants, journalistes, historiens, personnel du musée du génocide, enfants et petits enfants de rescapés, l’article sera publié prochainement.

Après deux semaines à Erevan consacrées à ce projet, je me rends pour quelques jours dans le Haut-Karabagh. Pays indépendant de facto disposant d’un appareil étatique complet, la jeune république pas plus grande qu’un département français n’est reconnue par aucun État membre de l’ONU. Petit aperçu historique.

« Il existe trois choses impossibles à prévoir dans la vie : la météo, les femmes, et la politique extérieure russe », plaisante un habitant de Shushi, troisième ville du pays. Malgré sa population à 95% arménienne, la province est offerte à l’Azerbaïdjan par Staline en 1921. Cette décision forte de conséquences semble illustrer à merveille la stratégie du diviser pour mieux régner. S’ensuivent 70 ans de politique d’azérification et de répression de la population arménienne. Un referendum en 1988 se transforme en plébiscite pour l’intégration de la région à la République Soviétique d’Arménie. Le vote est rejeté par Moscou, exacerbant les tensions et menant finalement à une guerre sanglante avec l’Azerbaïdjan qui durera 6 ans, fera près de 30.000 victimes et plus de 1,2 millions de déplacés. La république déclare son indépendance en 1991. Le conflit se solde par une victoire militaire des forces arméniennes. Depuis la fin de la guerre, les Arméniens contrôlent donc l’enclave mais aussi 9% du territoire azerbaïdjanais. Aujourd’hui encore, l’Azerbaïdjan revendique la province et dénonce une atteinte à son intégrité territoriale, principe en perpétuelle contradiction avec le droit des peuples à disposer d’eux-mêmes mis en avant par les Arméniens.

Le jeune État portait jusque récemment le nom de Nagorno-Karabagh, mélange de russe, turc et persan qui signifie « jardin noir montagneux », témoignant de son passé houleux. Il a été officiellement renommé République d’Artsakh, d’après l’appellation arménienne traditionnelle. J’interroge Nune, habitante du village de Shosh à quelques kilomètres de la capitale, sur ce changement de nom. « Ça m’est égal, ce ne sont que des mots. Tout ce qui m’importe c’est qu’on puisse enfin vivre en paix ». Plus de vingt ans après le cessez-le-feu, le conflit n’est en effet toujours pas réglé et chaque année des dizaines de jeunes soldats arméniens et azéris meurent le long de la frontière lors d’échanges de tirs.

Les similarités avec l’Arménie sont frappantes, si bien qu’on oublierait presque avoir traversé une frontière nationale. Drapeau quasiment identique, même monnaie, population toujours majoritairement arménienne, plus ou moins la même langue, etc. En terme de superficie, le Haut-Karabakh représente un tiers de l’Arménie mais possède une faible population : 150,000 habitants, dont un tiers réside dans la capitale. Le temps donne l’impression de s’être arrêté au beau milieu de l’ère Soviétique, et semble réticent à reprendre son cours : forte présence militaire, vielles Ladas (voitures russes peu onéreuses et très populaires par ici), restaurants enfumés, marchés couverts, etc. Pourquoi se limiter à se déplacer dans l’espace quand on peut voyager dans le temps ?

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De retour à Yerevan, je finis d’écrire mon article et commence à me préparer pour la prochaine étape de mon périple. C’est parti pour le casse-tête administratif des demandes de visas, il m’en faudra désormais un pour chaque pays que je vais traverser pendant la suite du voyage. J’obtiens mon visa pour l’Iran à l’ambassade d’Erevan sans trop de difficulté. Jusqu’ici tout va bien.

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