#8 Première étape dans le Caucase : la Géorgie

Ma sortie du territoire turc se fait non sans encombre. Voyageant seulement avec ma carte d’identité depuis le vol de mon passeport en Slovénie, je n’ai pas reçu de tampon lors de mon entrée en Turquie. Or l’agent des services frontaliers aurait du me donner un tampon sur un papier séparé. Ma négligence fut sans doute de ne pas insister pour en recevoir un. Quoi qu’il en soit, je suis maintenant en train d’essayer de sortir du pays sans aucun document pour justifier ma date d’entrée ! L’officier me fait signe de le suivre à l’intérieur. Affalé dans son siège les jambes reposant sur son bureau, il inspecte ma carte d’identité et lève de temps en temps les yeux pour me donner un regard furtif. Je vois bien qu’il tient mon destin entre ses mains. Comme si la situation n’était pas déjà assez dramatique, un jeune homme menotté est amené dans la pièce et s’assoie à côté de moi. Génial. Je commence à m’imaginer être forcé à prendre un bus pour Ankara où je devrais me rendre à l’ambassade pour trouver une solution. Essayant de me montrer aussi sympathique que possible, je dis au policier combien j’aime son pays et lui montre que je me suis appliqué à apprendre de nombreuses expressions de sa langue. Après une demi-heure interminable, il semble finir par m’apprécier, se lève, me tend ma carte d’identité, et prononce ces trois mots inespérés  : « You can go ». Je ne me fais pas prier et traverse la frontière pour rejoindre Belen aussi vite que possible avant qu’il ne change d’avis. Ouf ! Nous voilà en Géorgie. Il est vraiment temps que je récupère un passeport. J’ai rendez-vous dans quelques jours à l’Ambassade de France de Tbilissi pour faire une demande.

D’emblée, la Géorgie offre un contraste saisissant avec la Turquie. De retour dans un pays chrétien, les mosquées laissent place aux églises orthodoxes. Sarpi, la petite ville frontalière côté géorgien regorge de magasins vendant vin, bière, et liqueurs en tout genre. En terme de distance je me trouve plus loin de chez moi, et pourtant l’ambiance est bien moins exotique qu’en Turquie. La proximité culturelle ne se mesure pas en kilomètres. J’ai l’impression d’être à nouveau en Europe de l’est et particulièrement dans les Balkans. Pour couronner le tout, je suis surpris de trouver des drapeaux européens presque à tous les coins de rue, témoignant de la volonté intarissable du pays de rejoindre l’Union. L’alphabet quant à lui ne ressemble à aucun autre que je ne connaissais jusque là et n’est utilisé qu’en Géorgie.

Nous trouvons une voiture sans problème qui accepte de nous déposer à Batoumi, quelques trente kilomètres plus loin le long de la mer Noire. Batoumi est une ville pleine de contrastes. D’un côté, tout semble avoir été mis en œuvre pour lui donner l’apparence d’une version géorgienne de Las Vegas : bâtiments extravagants, hôtels de luxe, casinos, yachts, etc. A deux pas de cet excès de richesse se trouvent cependant des immeubles décrépis et autres habitations délabrées, venant rappeler que le salaire médian géorgien ne dépasse pas les 250€ par mois.

Il ne me reste que deux jours avant mon rendez-vous à l’ambassade, nous reprenons donc la route vers Tbilissi. Si l’autostop fonctionne un peu moins bien qu’en Turquie, nous trouvons tout de même assez rapidement des voitures et des camions pour nous avancer. Nous découvrons rapidement que les géorgiens sont des fous du volant et doublent de manière pour le moins douteuse. La route de Batoumi jusqu’à Tbilissi est assez longue, nous faisons donc une halte pour la nuit à Koutaïssi, une des plus grandes villes du pays. Nous allons manger dans un petit restaurant de la périphérie et y faisons l’expérience de l’hospitalité géorgienne dans toute sa splendeur. Pendant le repas, la serveuse commence à nous apporter des pintes de bières que nous n’avons pas commandées. Elle nous explique que les gens assis à la grande table près de nous célèbrent un anniversaire et veulent nous offrir un verre. J’ai du mal à m’imaginer la même chose se passer en France ! Ils finissent par nous inviter à leur table, et nous « rincent » littéralement : bière, vin, chacha (liqueur nationale géorgienne à base de prunes) coulent à flots. Nos nouveaux amis nous apprennent aussi danses et chants locaux. Quelle soirée ! L’étape géorgienne s’annonce bien.

C’est reparti avec un léger mal de crâne direction la capitale. Contre toute attente, c’est un car en provenance de la Turquie qui accepte de nous emmener gratuitement jusqu’à Tbilissi aujourd’hui. Je me rends le lendemain matin à l’Ambassade et dépose ma demande de passeport. D’ici deux à trois semaines je devrais recevoir le précieux sésame ! En attendant, nous allons essayer d’explorer un peu plus le pays.

Pour commencer, nous avons trouvé un job dans une auberge de jeunesse dans un semi-désert près de la frontière avec l’Azerbaïdjan. Une fois de plus, le site workaway.info se révèle d’une grande utilité pour voyager à moindre frais. Nous restons une semaine gratuitement à l’Oasis Club en échange d’un coup de main au restaurant et à l’auberge. Je fais aussi des photos des chambres pour leur site internet et réalise une série de portraits des habitants du village qui sera imprimée en grand format et affichée sous forme de mosaïque sur un mur de l’auberge.

 

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Udabno, qui signifie désert en géorgien, fut construit dans les années 1980 alors que le pays faisait encore partie de l’Union Soviétique. Le village est composé exclusivement de maisons bétonnées et semble avoir été laissé à l’abandon. Et pourtant, près de 200 Svanes, un groupe ethnique géorgien dont la majorité réside en Svanetie, région montagneuse du nord-ouest du pays, y ont élu domicile. « Un village en Géorgie » est une série de portraits qui traverse les générations accompagnée de scènes de rue mettant en lumière le caractère atemporel du village.

De retour à Tbilissi, un autre job nous attend dans une auberge du centre-ville. Même formule : quelques heures de travail cinq jours par semaine en échange d’un lit et du petit-déjeuner. Tbilissi est une petite capitale aux nombreuses facettes. La ville évolue entre d’un côté son passé communiste qui laisse encore ses traces dans certains quartiers et de l’autre la volonté moderniste et l’ouverture au tourisme international. Ce dernier aspect s’est particulièrement accentué au cours des dernières années. La vieille ville de Tbilissi est désormais pleine de cafés et restaurants dont les devantures sont écrites en anglais et de dizaines d’agences de voyages qui proposent des excursions dans le reste du pays. Cette atmosphère sonne faux et je préfère me balader dans les quartiers de la périphérie où l’on peut encore sentir le caractère authentique de la ville, notamment avec les nombreux marchés de Didube où sont vendus aussi bien fruits et légumes, vêtements que babioles en tout genre. Tbilisi se prête à merveille à la photo de rue.

 

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L’ambiance dans la capitale est quelque peu tendue avec les élections législatives prévues pour fin Octobre. Les affiches des différents candidats inondent le paysage urbain et plusieurs manifestations se déroulent sur Rustaveli, l’avenue principale de la ville. Des activistes se sont également installés devant le parlement et y campent depuis plus de trois semaines. Malheureusement je ne parle ni géorgien ni russe (langue parlée couramment par la majorité de la population encore aujourd’hui) et il est difficile de trouver un interlocuteur anglophone parmi les manifestants pouvant m’en dire davantage.

Je profite du weekend pour aller faire un peu de randonnée dans le Caucase, chaîne de montagne à la frontière avec la Russie.

Après deux mois à voyager ensemble depuis Istanbul, Belen et moi prenons des chemins séparés, elle s’en va en Espagne et je vais continuer mon périple à travers le Caucase et le Moyen-Orient. Nous avons passés de beaux moments ensemble et je lui souhaite bonne chance pour la suite de son voyage.

Je récupère enfin mon nouveau passeport, quel soulagement ! Une fois de plus, je réalise à quel point j’ai de la chance d’être français. J’ai pu voyager sans passeport depuis la Slovénie à travers la Croatie, la Serbie, la Bulgarie, la Turquie et la Géorgie et je n’ai même pas besoin de rentrer dans mon pays pour obtenir un nouveau passeport. On ne choisit pas ses privilèges, mais une chose est sûre, on en profite à souhait. Je reprends ainsi la route vers un autre pays que je ne connais pas encore mais qui me fascine déjà, l’Arménie.

49 Comments

Join the discussion and tell us your opinion.

Ruffel Bénédictereply
22 octobre 2017 at 19 h 37 min

Bonjour Yann ,
Je découvre avec un grand plaisir ton site .
J’ai voyagé avec toi cet après-midi !!!
Tes photos sont superbes et tes textes si agréables à lire .
Je vais suivre ton voyage et j’ai aussi hâte de découvrir ta prochaine étape !
A très bientôt.
Bénédicte ( Mère de Clémentine ) et Cyrille.

Yann Lenzenreply
25 octobre 2017 at 9 h 55 min
– In reply to: Ruffel Bénédicte

Merci beaucoup Bénédicte, ça fait plaisir. Content de pouvoir vous faire voyager un peu par procuration! J’espère que tout va bien chez vous.
A bientôt,
Yann

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7 août 2018 at 13 h 44 min

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7 août 2018 at 22 h 45 min

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