#3 Mésaventure slovène et traversée éclaire de la Croatie

Lac de Garde – Ljubljana

Je reprends la route tôt le matin sans trop de difficultés. Un couple italien m’avance d’abord jusqu’à Venise, puis Peter et sa fille Lila en route pour la Hongrie me déposent sur une aire à quelques kilomètres de Ljubljana. Une dernière voiture suffira pour rentrer dans la capitale. 

Me voilà en Slovénie, le pays le plus aisé et le plus développé de l’ex-Yougoslavie. Un visiteur qui se promène aujourd’hui à Ljubljana aura sans doute du mal à croire que le pays faisait encore partie d’une république fédérale à parti unique communiste il y a moins de trente ans. L’architecture austro-hongroise est omniprésente, si bien qu’on se croirait presque à Vienne. Les larges blocs d’immeubles grisâtres typiques de Sarajevo ou encore de Belgrade sont quant à eux quasiment absents du paysage urbain de la capitale Slovène.

 

Il est déjà 21 heures passé lorsque je rentre dans la ville et me mets à la recherche d’une auberge pour la nuit. La première que je trouve est complète, je consulte donc la disponibilité des autres sur internet et constate qu’aucun lit n’est libre ce soir… Un samedi soir pendant la haute saison, on aurait pu s’y attendre. Le charme mais aussi le problème du stop, c’est qu’on ne peut jamais être sûr d’où l’on va arriver le soir. Difficile de réserver à l’avance.

Devant l’auberge, je rencontre Rob, un néerlandais qui voyage seul à travers la région. Nous sympathisons et passons la soirée à Metelkova, un centre culturel alternatif de la capitale. N’ayant nulle part où dormir, je décide de me reposer quelques heures dans un parc avant de repartir tôt le matin. Seulement voilà, à mon réveil, plus de sac… Quelqu’un a profité de mon sommeil pour me soustraire le petit sac à dos contenant mon appareil photo (et toutes les photos du voyage jusqu’ici), mon ordinateur portable, mon passeport, etc. Le coup pour le moral est dur. Deux semaines seulement après le départ, je rencontre déjà une grosse difficulté. Heureusement, j’ai toujours ma carte nationale d’identité et ma carte de crédit en ma possession. Je peux donc continuer ma route jusqu’à Istanbul où je ferai un arrêt prolongé et une demande de nouveau passeport. Je vais aussi devoir racheter un appareil photo et un ordinateur. Évidemment, mon budget qui n’était déjà pas mirobolant va s’en voir drastiquement réduit.

Ljubljana – Belgrade

Après cette mésaventure, je n’ai qu’une seule hâte : quitter la ville et poursuivre ma route pour clore ce désagréable chapitre. Aussi suis-je pressé d’arriver dans les pays moins onéreux au vu de mon maigre budget. Je reprends le stop le lendemain matin avec un objectif précis en tête : rallier Ljubljana et Belgrade. Pour cela, il me faut parcourir plus de 500 kilomètres à travers la Slovénie, toute la Croatie et une partie de la Serbie.

J’ai beaucoup de mal à sortir de Ljubljana et dois me rendre à une station essence plus propice. Il est déjà près de 13 heures lorsqu’un chauffeur de poids lourd serbe accepte de m’avancer jusqu’à Zagreb. Dans la foulée, une voiture m’emmène jusqu’à Slavonski Brod près de la frontière serbe. Je ne connais que quelques mots de serbo-croate et mon chauffeur ne parle quasiment pas anglais, alors autant dire que nos échanges ne sont pas des plus éloquents. Et pourtant, nous passons plus de deux heures ensemble alors nous essayons de communiquer un minimum. Il connaît au moins les mots « good » et « bad », je peux donc lui demander son avis sur différentes villes de la région :

« Belgrade ?

– Good, good !

– Sarajevo ?

– Bad… »

Plus que 150 kilomètres jusqu’à Belgrade ! Il est toutefois déjà 18h30 et à mesure que l’obscurité s’installe, mes chances s’amenuisent. Mes bienfaiteurs sont aujourd’hui une famille originaire de Roumanie en route pour Bucarest qui accepte de me prendre et fera même un détour pour me déposer dans le centre-ville de Belgrade.

 

Mon appareil photo ayant été volé, les photos utilisées pour illustrer cet article datent d’un voyage de l’été dernier.

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