#2 Bref épisode italien

Aix-en-Provence – Gênes

C’est reparti direction l’Italie. N’ayant pas d’accès direct à une station essence, je me rends à la sortie de la ville avec une petite pancarte sur laquelle j’ai inscrit les lettres N-I-C-E. Je ne compte pas m’y arrêter, mais il s’agit de la prochaine ville conséquente sur ma route. Une berline noire ne tarde pas à ralentir et se ranger sur le côté de la voie. Son conducteur me fait signer de grimper. Rodolphe se trouve en déplacement professionnel et accepte de m’avancer jusqu’à une station essence peu avant Nice où je pourrai poursuivre mes recherches. Trouver une voiture ici s’avère plus délicat. Peu importe, il est encore tôt et je ne suis pas si pressé. Je rencontre deux autostoppeurs allemands avec qui j’échange des anecdotes de voyages. Après environ deux heures, une famille marocaine en vacances très sympathique m’emmène avec elle pour un petit bout de chemin. Petit bout de chemin, certes, mais Abel Jabbar, sa femme et ses filles me font traverser la première frontière du périple ! Je suis aux anges. A l’excitation se mêle pourtant un brin d’émotion car je réalise que je ne remettrai plus les pieds sur le territoire français avant une année…

La route depuis Nice longe la côte et se révèle absolument splendide. Lors d’une petite pause déjeuner, je rencontre un couple franco-italien en route pour Rome. Barbara et Dominique me disent d’abord que leur voiture est pleine à craquer, mais nous sympathisons rapidement et ils s’affairent à réorganiser leurs bagages pour me faire une petite place. C’est donc parti pour Gênes ! Une fois de plus je vais atteindre mon objectif de la journée. Je suis d’autant plus satisfait car je vais pouvoir dormir comme prévu chez Andrea, mon hôte rencontré sur la plateforme Couchsurfing.

D’emblée, je suis frappé par l’envergure de Genova. La ville semble avoisiner la taille de Marseille et s’étend à perte de vue. Je dois donc marcher pendant près de deux heures pour rejoindre l’appartement d’Andrea qui se trouve dans le quartier de Marassi au nord de la ville. Mon sac à dos, malgré plusieurs ajustements et sacrifices, se transforme vite en fardeau lorsqu’il me faut parcourir de longues distances à pied.

Andrea m’accueille donc chez lui. Nous ne nous connaissons que depuis quelques minutes, et pourtant un contact amical s’installe sans tarder. Il me fait visiter son appartement et me prête un jeu de clés pour que je puisse circuler comme bon me semble. Quelle confiance ! Andrea est assez occupé et n’a que peu de temps à m’accorder. Nous allons tout de même à la plage le lendemain après-midi avec des amis à lui. Je profite du temps passé seul pour rattraper le retard accumulé dans mon carnet de route et pour explorer la ville.

Si Gênes n’est pas la plus splendide des cités italiennes sur le plan architectural ou historique – Rome et Florence sont à cet égard sans doute inégalables – la capitale de la Ligurie arbore charme, caractère et authenticité. La ville est bâtie le long de la Méditerranée et possède un important relief. Le centre historique est relativement plat, alors que les immeubles multicolores des banlieues sont perchés sur les collines environnantes. Cette séparation géographique semble traduire une certaine hiérarchie sociale et économique où les plus aisés ne s’aventurent guère dans les hauteurs de la ville.

 

Gênes – Lac de Garde

Je quitte la ville sans destination précise en tête. Mes recherches d’hôte via Couchsurfing dans l’est de l’Italie sont restées infructueuses. En arrivant à une station essence à la sortie de la ville, un panneau «NO AUTOSTOP » vient me rappeler l’illégalité de mon mode de transport dans le pays. Qu’importe ! Je ne compte pas renoncer pour autant. Deux autostoppeurs portugais rencontrés à la station me disent qu’ils sont bloqués ici depuis trois jours à la recherche d’une voiture pour Milan… Trois jours! C’est de mauvais augure. Et pourtant, contre toute attente, je trouve une voiture en seulement 5 minutes… pour Milan. Je ressens d’abord un brin de remord et culpabilité vis-à-vis d’Andrei et son ami, une règle tacite de l’autostop voulant que les premiers arrivés doivent être les premiers à partir. Et pourtant Tony n’aurait pu les prendre car il n’a qu’une seule place dans sa voiture. Originaire d’Amiens, Tony revient de Sardaigne et me dépose sur une aire d’autoroute peu avant Milan.

Impossible de trouver une voiture qui va vers l’est ici, je me résigne donc à accepter de me faire déposer à Milan. Arrivé là-bas, je traverse la ville en métro et me remets à la recherche d’une voiture. De manière générale, les italiens sont méfiants et hostiles aux autostoppeurs. Une, deux, trois heures à attendre. Deux jolies italiennes s’arrêtent pour me dire que je n’ai aucune chance ici et me proposent de me déposer à la gare centrale de la ville. J’apprécie leur offre, il est toutefois hors de question que je prenne le train. Le stop, c’est l’école de la patience et de la persévérance. Et heureusement, ça finit toujours par payer !

Un italien d’un certain âge m’emmène jusqu’à une station essence non loin de là, mais sur la bonne route. Milan, Bergame, Brescia… Les voitures et les villes s’enchaînent désormais. Un très sympathique couple suisse de Zurich me dépose sur une aire près du magnifique Lago di Garda. La journée a été longue, je décide d’en rester là pour aujourd’hui et d’aller ma planter ma tente aux abords du lac.

 

Je me suis fait voler mon appareil photo en Slovénie, les photos de l’Italie sont donc perdues. La photo de Gênes utilisée pour illustrer l’article a été trouvée sur Internet. 

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